Tuesday, 17 November 2009

The Tunisians

Mr President

Since we arrived to the airport in Monastir, his thoughtful smile was accompanying us during whole journey. He was everywhere. It was time of approaching election. All the billboards were showing the only proper choice: Ben Ali. Of course, he won. As always since 1987 :-)

He became a president after coup d'état, after inter alia 4 years political practice as ambassador of Poland.

Although Tunisian Republic is a democratic country only on paper, many citizens truly support their president. They live in strange tourism-friendly mix of socialism and capitalism, rather poor but relatively safe.

Women and vogue

Surprise, surprise! No yashmaghs, no even mandatory higabs. Previous (and the first) president, Habib Bourguiba married to French and educated in Europe, laicised the country and forbade many of traditional Muslim habits. Girls can freely go everywhere without man’s company. Here you can see an official spot about Tunisian women:


Please compare this spot to any article or video about women's right in Poland and to the picture on the left :-)
We have seen women having bath in the sea few times - they were always completely dressed and accompanied by their men.

In big towns girls wear trendy clothes and are very stylish. They can’t show their shoulders nor knees, so they wear fit jeans under short skirts or tunics and if they have dresses with straps, they have tight t-shirts beneath. They differ from often not very young Europeans showing their bodies without care of aesthetic. It doesn’t mean that you can’t meet traditional outfit in Tunisia. Older women, especially in smaller cities on the south wear kind of long dresses which cover almost whole silhouette. These dresses are usually made of one color shiny fabric and higabs are matching or they are made of the same cloth. We saw few very old ladies trying to hide their faces somehow (sometimes they kept cloth with their teeth!) as yashmags are officially forbidden.


Berbers

They are indigenous nomadic or semi-nomadic people of Tunisia (and other countries of Northern Africa), which is hard to believe – they look so European! They survived numerous conquests of this part of continent and absorbed elements of successive cultures and religions, but they preserved their individuality. On the contrary to Arabs, Berbers’ tribes in Tunisia are matriarchal. They live in inaccessible deserted places. Their traditional houses (not many are left, but some still function) are hollowed out in sandstone and decorated with symbols which should deter evil forces. Hagib Bourgiba offered them modern new houses, as he couldn’t stand that some Tunisians still live in the caves;-) It raised Berbers’ aggression, but after many years of consequent politics most of the old houses play role of the allotment gardens.

These are just my short notes about some chosen threads, so feel free to ask if there’s anything that may be interesting for you. Perhaps you have comparison with other Muslim countries and you could share your insights. I’m waiting impatiently for your comments :-)

6 comments:

  1. Interesting facts on approach to religion of natives. Thing that schocked me in Egypt was that I've met only about 2 or 3 egyptian women. Normally you see only men. In the villages all women are kept in houses, in more laicised cities (like Cairo) you situation it bit better.

    Thing that sank into my memory was intrusive and annoying as hell attitude of locals wanting you to buy their product or service by all means. After few things I got tired and was a bit unpleasant to them.

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  2. Egypt and Tunisia differs a lot from each other, but annoying traders are the same thing in all Arabic countries I'm afraid :-)

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  3. Arab countries have a completely different culture. Often do not understand the behavior of people who live there. In Tunisia alone is more than a dozen different dialects.
    If you get used to the culture of commerce in the Arab countries, you can learn many interesting things. During bargaining the Arabs tell the methods of the device, the origin of items, weather conditions, political situation, the child's birthday, etc..

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  4. You're right :-) The bargaining is kind of social life :-)

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  5. When it comes to women and their rights in countries where they have to cover under clothes that can be better described as tents, I must say its totally riddiculous.

    I realise their culture differs greatly from ours but to me it doesnt really excuse some of traditions they are having, which make women look like slaves?

    Maybe Im getting wrong impression but thats how that whole "Dont show your face ever!" cloth bussiness looks to me.

    At least Tunesian women apparently have more or less equall rights with men now.

    Oh and the whole arabic trade business, I dont really see anything wrong with it. Bargain bit is pretty interesting. I must admit tho, if someone kept tried to sell me some junk and ignoring my answers, I would get angry.

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  6. I wonder how many people speaks English and how contact they are. I can assume that every hotel-boy can speak some phrases to get one dollar but it seems to be interesting to speak with some natives and get to know how they live. I like to go to villages in foreign countries to see real life but it's not easy to find anyone there who speaks English:)

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